Huddled below wooded hills, beside a stone bridge over the River Monnow, this whitewashed former 17th-century coaching inn is delightfully at ease in the landscape.

In a mobile-phone not-spot, deep in the rich foraging grounds of the Wye valley, Chris and Kirsty Harrod’s restaurant-with-rooms holds its Michelin star for a ninth year.

It’s not big on modern luxury, but you can find absolute peace and natural beauty here in the prior’s quarters, beside the picturesque ruins of an Augustinian priory under the Black Mountains.