Beside the River Eamont, a 17th-century coaching inn (Thwaites) has been revamped to make the most of its idyllic surroundings. It has a large modern rooftop sun terrace with splendid views, and garden seating by the water’s edge. On cold days, the cosy interior, furnished with plaids and reclaimed timber, is warmed by blazing fires. Food is served throughout the day. Some of the rustic and plainly styled bedrooms (a few are in a separate building) have views of Lake Ullswater.