The Queensberry

There’s a huge sense of fun at this stylish hotel, whose logo is Vanity Fair’s caricature of the 9th Marquess of Queensberry, Oscar Wilde’s Nemesis. Laurence and Helen Beere’s ‘exceptional hotel’ in a ‘quirky combination of four townhouses’ has pugilism-themed jokes throughout; the decor is knockout too, and particularly so after a refurbishment. Junior suites, in former drawing rooms overlooking Russel Street, have floor-to-ceiling windows, an original fireplace, maybe Divine Savages’ Crane Fonda or Portobello Parade wallpaper. Some suites have a seven-foot-square four-poster and a large bathroom with double shower. Club rooms are small but chic, and the use of colour is ravishing. Eight rooms at the top are air-conditioned. In the Michelin-starred Olive Tree restaurant, Chris Cleghorn’s tasting menus pack a punch with dishes such as Cornish monkfish cooked over Binchotan charcoal, or Aged Woolley Park Farm duck with turnip and black winter truffle. ‘Food and service were outstanding,’ write readers ‘bowled over by the warm and informative welcome’. Light bites are available in Old Q bar. Continental and cooked breakfasts include pastries, charcuterie, smoked haddock or salmon, a full English or full vegetarian. (GB)