Summer Lodge

'It's ‘fiercely expensive’, but this Relais & Châteaux hotel in a chocolate-box village doesn’t stint on the traditional country-house luxuries, drapes, stripes, florals, sofas and chandeliers, antiques, and paintings (the Garden Suite, with a conservatory and private garden, has an original Matisse). Bedrooms are supplied with fruit and flowers, shortbread, Floris toiletries. ‘Overall very good,’ wrote a reader on a return visit. ‘Rooms beautifully furnished and lovely and warm.’ There is an indulgent spa. ‘We love the swimming pool and ambience.’ At dinner our returnee was a little disappointed that the new doorstep menu of hyper-local produce included no canapés or amuse bouche, ‘and we were told it changes infrequently’. Still, vegans have a plant-based menu, and there is more choice à la carte, with dishes such as Lyme Bay monk fish, burnt leek, garden carrots, saffron. You can eat more cheaply at sister property The Acorn Inn (see entry). ‘Breakfast was excellent, with the usual high-grade local offerings.' ‘Staff all first class. Despite cost will probably return.’ (Ian Dewey, Gareth Pearce, IB)