The Cottage in the Wood

A whitewashed cottage on a steep woodland pass may seem an unlikely setting for Michelin-starred dining, but this restaurant-with-rooms charms both the eye and the palate. Liam and Kath Berney’s former 17th-century drovers’ inn, in Whinlatter Forest, enjoys views to Skiddaw and a rural environment that teems with birds and wildlife. It’s ‘immensely relaxing’, as is Kath’s warm welcome. Rooms have a neat, contemporary style with feature wallpapers, oak furniture and perhaps a brass bedstead. Some are ‘small but well designed’. Modern bathrooms, some compact, have ‘good lighting and a decent shower’. Nice touches include ‘delicious home-made shortbread’ and, for rooms with a tub, ‘bath soak – perfect for easing walkers’ limbs!’ Sam Miller, the new head chef, has an impressive Michelin pedigree (the three-star Noma in Copenhagen and two-star Faviken in Sweden). His sample menus might include saddle of Herdwick hogget with cauliflower, romanesco and wild watercress, or roasted langoustine with celeriac, brown butter, celery and black cabbage. The wine list is 'thoughtful and has strengthened since our last visit', says a returning reader. Breakfast includes ‘the creamiest of scrambled eggs’. (Ingle Dawson, HP)