Cliveden House

Redolent of its sometimes racy past, this veritable palazzo, designed by Sir Charles Barry in 1850 for the Duke of Sutherland, sits in National Trust pleasure grounds above the Thames. In 1893 it was sold to William Waldorf Astor, who installed some of his little travel souvenirs – a balustrade from Rome’s Villa Borghese, Mme de Pompadour’s gilded dining room…Approaching the main house ‘feels like being on the film set of Pride and Prejudice’, says a Guide insider. Today a Relais & Châteaux hotel and spa, it oozes opulence, with bedrooms ranging from ‘club’ doubles with queen-size bed, to the Buckingham suite, with its 'marble bathroom that could hold a rugby team'. Deluxe doubles have a working fireplace. Some rooms have an outdoor hot tub. 'Even Kipling, the smallest room, has an impressive stucco ceiling.' ‘Service is attentive; the carry service of luggage to far-flung rooms is useful.’ Eat in style in the dining room overlooking the spectacular parterre, with dishes such as poached bass, plums, kelp consommé. Or opt for a burger, pasta or sharing plate in the fun, dog-friendly Astor Grill in the former stables. See also Chewton Glen and 11 Cadogan Gardens.