Rathmullan House

Pass the little gate lodge to drive up to this bay-fronted country house in wooded grounds edged by a beach on Lough Swilly. It was a hikers’ hostel with no electricity after 8 pm, to encourage early rising, when Bob Wheeler bought it in 1961 and created something far more commodious. Run today by Bob’s son Mark and daughter-in-law Mary, it has the feel of a family home, where a full Ulster with fresh-baked bread and Bob’s marmalade will tempt you early from your bed. Log fires burn in lounges with comfy sofas, antiques, paintings, photos, exquisite plasterwork, and snacks served all day. Lovely bedrooms with original features are furnished with antiques. The best have a bay window with lough views. More contemporary rooms in a new wing have French doors to a patio or balcony. In the Cook & Gardener restaurant, produce from the walled garden appears with locally landed fish and foraged ingredients in dishes such as seared turbot with champ, beetroot purée, braised fennel, Mulroy Bay mussels and turmeric velouté. Or eat stone-baked pizzas with craft ales under canvas. Wildlife-watchers scan the shores for dolphins and porpoises.